Jim & Jamie’s Adventures In Napa

Living in San Francisco for 14 years taught me an appreciation for wine bars and good food.  It gave you the opportunity to try new releases and new vineyards with a paired food item.  When the new wine bar, Carpe Diem, opened I was skeptical: do we really need a wine bar in Napa?  My answer is absolutely YES!  They are doing for me what San Francisco wine bars did: introduce me to small vintners here in the Valley and, even better, abroad.  Because I don’t want my palate to become “Napa only” I always appreciate when a restaurant provides non-Napa wines to enjoy so I can keep my palate fresh and open to new developments in the wine industry throughout the world.

The decor is right up our alley: modern, contemporary, with cool colors and muted hues.  The chef is doing some great work with small and large bites of food: the deep fried olives are a perfect beginning, and the pork rib sliders are scrumptious.  The cheese selection is not so intense that you cannot decide; the choices are clear, clean, and varied.  The nut and seed Dukkah was a new food item for me and I loved eating it, dipping the bread in olive oil and then into the nut and seed mixture.  The Italian Picnic Salad was unusual in presentation and that was what made it so much fun and tasty.  We also enjoyed the Corn Dogs and dipping them in mustard (what a nice dish to awaken the memories to carnivals from childhood).  That was part of the enjoyment: the food evoked conversations about other countries as well as past memories.  Now how nice is that?

The wine list, by the glass and by the bottle, is part of the joy.  Make sure to use the wine steward as he is knowledgeable and loves to introduce you to new wines.  When I tried a white wine he suggested with the sliders I was hesitant: but he was spot on.  There was a sweetness and a spiciness to the sliders that worked perfectly against the wine.

For those who aren’t “too hungry”, this is a great place to go.  For those who want a “full meal” this is a great place to go.  Yes, it suits both needs between all the dishes offered.  I look forward to seeing how the menu changes as well as the wine list over the next year.  I’m very happy that Carpe Diem is a new addition to our recommended list and is within walking distance of The Inn On First.

It takes time.  You have to know your guests.  With some I won’t even try; they usually have the look of “steak and potatoes” in their eyes.  But the adventurous ones, the food lovers, those who want to try something unusual and fun and delicious; these are the ones I will talk to about Ubuntu.  These individuals look at your warily at first when you invite them to consider a “vegetable restaurant” for dinner.  No, not vegan, not vegetarian; a restaurant that takes vegetables to new heights and brings new meaning to innovative dining.  I invite them to find a vegetable they are “tired of” and order it; because I assure you that the chef, Aaron London, will prepare the vegetable in such a way that you will be fighting over the dish for the last bite or final drop.  Who cares that it was named the Best New Restaurant in America by the NY Times in 2009?  Who cares that Michelin Rating gave it a single star?  Who cares that the local food critic in San Francisco gave the food 3.5 stars out of 4 and wrote: “Order anything.  You’ll be happy”?  Aaron London is bringing poetry and beauty to vegetables in a way that I never considered.  We have eaten there 9 times in 2 years; more than any other restaurant in Napa Valley; and we continue to introduce our family and friends to the restaurant.

So, Gary and Cynthia from Kansas were here with us recently to celebrate their 45th wedding anniversary.  After a few moments of talking to them I could see that glint in their eyes, the opening to new possibilities in their world, and so I began my quest to invite them to something new and wonderful in Napa.  They were intrigued.  Then I began to describe the curried coconut soup, the fava bean tempura, the flatbread piled high with greens and flowers, and the donuts with liquid chocolate pudding for dessert.  I told them not to be intimidated by the menu description, but rather to have the server explain the plates because then their mouths would water.  ”Intriguing,” Gary said.  ”Interesting,” Cynthia replied.  Hmm.  Not good enough.  Just then two guests came around the corner and asked Gary and Cynthia where they were going to have dinner.  They told the young couple they were considering Ubuntu, the vegetable restaurant.  The young couple responded with glee!  They had just eaten there the night before and had a marvelous meal.  Gary and Cynthia were sold and left for dinner.

I waited until after breakfast, hoping they were fully sated and satisfied with what I had served them, and then I dared to ask the question: “How was dinner last night?”  ”You were right,” Gary said.  ”The menu is a little intimidating and the server explained it to perfection.  Even better, the food was spectacular and we loved it.  I think it is one of the best meals I have ever eaten!”  Enough said.  And this was Gary and Cynthia from Kansas, meat and potato country.  Go.  Enjoy.  And try not to eat too many vegetables; you’ll want to leave some room for dessert.

I am in love with the new Italian restaurant down the street called OH-no-tree, but spelled Oenotri.  Southern Italian/Sicilian cuisine that presents new flavors each week to satisfy your Italian urge.  First, the pizza:  We chose the margherita pizza again to look for consistency and it was just perfect.  Crusty, a nice blend of tomatoes and oregano and just a touch of cheese make this pizza a perfect appetizer to begin the meal.  I ordered the roasted artichoke salad (I know they’ll be out of season soon!), served with potatoes and tuna confit and Jamie ordered the field greens with vinaigrette.  Nothing wrong with his salad; it was just that mine sparkled with every bite and he agreed.  I’ll warn you now: trying to limit what you order can be difficult considering that they make their own pastas and salumi.

Jamie ordered the pasta with lamb, with a rich, earthy sauce that you wanted to sop up with bread.  (A note on bread: they’ll serve it if you ask for it; it isn’t just offered, and it comes with olive oil)  I chose the house-made pastrami dinner with arugula (not my favorite green but it worked perfectly with the pastrami) and long-cooked fava beans in the skin, all of which was delicious.  The beans pleasantly surprised me: I usually boil my fava beans briefly and then remove the outer skin before using; but the longevity of the cooking process at Oenotri softened the skin and gave the bean a silkier texture than I imagined.  As for wine we brought our own: a $15 corkage fee for the first bottle, and $20 for every bottle after that.  Reservations here are a must, and at least 1 to 2 weeks in advance for a decent dinner time.

Thursday is a great night to spend a night at The Inn On First.  Every Thursday, from June through mid-September, the Napa Downtown Merchant’s Association presents “Chef’s Market”.  You can find a farmer’s market anywhere. But only in Napa can you buy your produce, watch a world class chef’s demonstration, enjoy live music at four stages including one just for kids – while enjoying a glass of Napa Valley wine. The sixteenth annual Thursday night Napa Chef’s Market summer season kicked-off on Thursday, May 20, and will continue through the summer from 5 to 9 PM on First Street in Downtown Napa.  Free and open to the public, this outdoor food, wine and entertainment extravaganza is like no other – it  features food and wine tastings from Napa Valley restaurants and wineries, cooking demonstrations by Napa’s acclaimed chefs, dozens of food vendors, produce from 25 of the region’s top farmers, three musical stages, and a block of children’s entertainment. Chefs Market has been voted “Best Family Outing” by local radio stations listeners for years.  Even casual foodies will enjoy the two nightly cooking demonstrations at 6:30 and 7:30 each night, which are hosted by Anne Baker, former pastry chef for Mustards Grill. Baker lines up two chefs each night, and both pair their offerings with wine from a downtown tasting room.  Samples of food and wine are free to all watching.

This is a great way to spend a Thursday evening like a local Napan: walk the streets, enjoy some beer and wine, listen to the music, and enjoy the sights, sounds, and flavors of downtown Napa on a balmy summer evening.

If you want some great, easy eats at very affordable prices, then Oxbow Market on Tuesday nights is the place to be.  Gott’s Burgers and Fries, $4.00 for a cheeseburger and fries, and a house salad at 50% off.  Hog Island Oyster company has oysters for $1, and Pica-Pica has $1 ceviche shots.  These are just a few of the treats waiting for those who are staying at The Inn On First on Tuesday nights.  Entertainment will also be provided in the main market area between the hours of 5 to 9 pm.  And don’t forget all the great tasting rooms in the area that are staying open later for the summer, some until 9 pm for those who want to continue to experience of wine tasting later into the night.  You can also walk over to the Verasa and eat at the Bank Bar where they serve 3 tapas for $5.  Stay on Tuesday, be a local.

Get out of the car and onto the bike.  It is a lovely way to see the Napa Valley, and all within reach of The Inn On First.  Napa Valley Adventure Tours rents bicycles out of the Oxbow Market, a 15-20 minute walk from the inn.  While at the Oxbow Market you can pick up sandwiches from The Fatted Calf (love the pulled pork), or go next door to The Model Bakery for a loaf of bread (a huge selection) and head up to the Cheese Merchant in the main building for some olives, cheeses, or other snacks.  While there, visit the wine shop where you can pick up half-bottles of wine for lunch, or walk through the open market and purchase fresh fruit, vegetables, or go to Pica-Pica for some gluten-free items.  Then go to the bike shop, pick up your bike and head right back down First Street, past the inn, over Highway 29 until First Street becomes Browns Valley Road.  Stay on that street until you see the animal farm on the left (about 1/4 mile from Highway 29) and turn left on Thompson Road.  Follow Thompson Avenue to Congress Valley Road (right) and continue to Buhman Road (left) which takes you into the heart of the Carneros Region.  Best place to lunch and wine taste will be Folio Winemaker’s Studio, where you can sit at the picnic table out near the vineyards, or go onto the back porch and enjoy your lunch overlooking the vineyards.  This is the 6-mile marker from the inn.  If you are feeling hearty, head up the hill toward Artesa Winery for a great view (7-mile marker) and then make a decision: more cycling, more wine tasting, or return to the inn.  If you are ready to return, head for Old Sonoma Road, turn left, and follow the directions below for Getting Home.

If you are ready to keep going then head back down the hill away from Artesa Winery toward Domain Carneros Winery (9-mile marker), where you can spend some time enjoying a purchase of their cheese plate with a glass of sparkling wine on their terrace.  Want to go further?  Follow Duhig Road toward Acacia Winery (11.5 mile marker), and then to Cuttings Wharf Road/Carneros Ave to Saintsbury winery (16-mile marker) and then back toward Madonna Estate and Old Sonoma Road (17-mile marker).

Getting Home: Stay on Old Sonoma Road until it crosses back over Highway 29 and you come to Jefferson Avenue.  Turn left on Jefferson and ride down to First Street and turn left. At this point you will have completed a 22-mile loop.  You want a bigger ride than that?  I’ll have to save that info for another blog: think Lake Hennessey and Chiles Valley.

Don’t worry about directions: we’ll have maps for you as well as the bike shop.  There are only a few slight inclines, except for the climb up to Artesa; it is generally a really flat ride with great views of the wineries, vineyard, and the Carneros Region.  And except for a very short (maybe 50 yards) ride along the highway, you are on side streets that keep you away from the hustle and bustle of traffic.

For those who want to see my map, copy and paste the link to a new window:  http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=118210235070811742809.0004863229d0d1cb14f19&z=13&lci=bike

Jeremy Fox and his wife left Ubuntu this past year and we were a bit worried about what would happen to this nationally known “vegetable restaurant”.  Well, after eating 2 dinners there with Chef Aaron London (who has been working there since the inception of the restaurant) there is no doubt that the same great food is coming out of that kitchen; ok, dare I say it?  I think even better.  The menu has been scaled down to a more manageable size, and the flavors are still incredibly rich and inviting.  I have eaten there more often than any other restaurant in Napa Valley; simply because, I conjecture, I cannot believe someone is actually going to get me to eat all of my vegetables!  This last time it was the carrots.  I thought I just couldn’t swallow another carrot for the year, and the plate arrived and we found ourselves fighting over the dish.  The flatbread (not pizza) with a thin crispy crust and lots of greens on top was fresh tasting, gave great crunch, and deeply satisfied.  Of course, for starters we always begin with the marcona almonds and the olives and the chickpeas in romesco sauce because the flavors just wake the palate up out of its afternoon stupor.  For dessert I had to order the chicory doughnuts and hot chocolate (two of my favorite food groups: fat and sugar) and was not disappointed as I sipped up liquid chocolate pudding from a cup.  It was heavenly.  Don’t worry about walking away hungry; you won’t.  They find plenty of ways to put protein sources in the meal (legumes, grains, cheese, eggs).  It is no surprise to me that the New York Times called it the “Best New Restaurant in America outside of NYC” in 2009.  It continues to shine.

For years we have talked about eating at La Toque, especially when it moved from Rutherford to the City of Napa.  As an upscale, classy, and special place we kept waiting for a “special occasion” to go.  Well, we finally had to admit that having a free night together was enough of a special occasion to go; and we were not disappointed.  They sat us near the fireplace at a quiet table for two; and as I looked around the room I realized that all the tables were spread out so that each table provided privacy and gave you enough aloneness to make it very romantic.  As much as I love tasting menus because they provide the chef a place to showcase his talent, we wanted to eat on the “lighter” side.  They offer a 3-course or 4-course options on the main menu, and we chose the 4-course (so much for “lighter”): appetizer, first course, main course, and dessert.  They began with a small amuse bouche to awaken the appetite, and then we began with our first course- for me,  ricotta ravioli served with chickpeas and mushrooms.  It was such a great beginning and I was really pleased.  Jamie started with the curried dungeness crab salad with homemade papadums, a small tower of crunch and flavor in every bite.

For second course, I decided to try the lobster salad with roasted sweet potatoes- a combination of foods I wouldn’t necessarily have paired together- and it worked brilliantly.  Served warm, the lobster still stood up for itself against what could have been an overwhelming flavor in the sweet potato and the two danced perfectly on my palate.  Jamie chose the Quail, with sausage-stuffed morel mushrooms that were completely addictive.  For his main course Jamie went wild and ordered the buffalo with a buffalo pot-roast terrine, served with scalloped potatoes, as his main course; I admit that buffalo can have a gamy aroma associated with it, but the flavor did not carry it.  With the raclette-filled potatoes, the combination was really nice.  Angus rib eye with red wine sauce was my choice, mostly because it came with cheddared pearl tapioca on the side, which was every bit as delicious as I had hoped.  Although the courses look small in appearance, as you eat each course you begin to fill up and wonder whether you even have room for dessert at the end.  We suffered through it, of course, and ordered the chocolate mousse cake with a mint chocolate chip ice cream cookies that was rich and creamy, and the chocolate parfait that had incredible layers of cream, chocolate, and nougat throughout the cup.  Overall cost?  Without wine: about $200.00 for two, which in Napa is a great bargain; with wine, add another $100 – $150, depending on what you order.

For guests looking for a really nice dining experience that is classy, upscale, and romantic (and is only a 2-minute drive from The Inn On First), check out La Toque for a really lovely meal.

We enjoyed a perfect day in Napa.  Lovely blue skies, 75 degree weather, and a lovely hike for an hour to Lake Marie (Lake Marie Road).  It starts in a parking lot, veers around an RV park, and then climbs into the hillsides filled with oak trees, long grasses, and beautiful flowers all over the place.  There we found a bench at the lake, a place to eat lunch, drink some wine, and to enjoy the afternoon.  Then we made the trek back with some really spectacular views of Napa Valley; all the while proclaiming: “Oh my!  And we get to live here.”  It is a five minute drive from The Inn On First and it is called Skyline Wilderness Park.  For a $5.00 day-use fee you have access to picnic grounds and some really wonderful trails in the hills around the city of Napa.  Due to poison oak we stayed with the Lake Marie Road trail, which is pretty much a straight shot to Lake Marie.  There are picnic areas along the trail, as well as picnic tables or benches (okay, only 2) for you to enjoy the view of the lake, the egrets, the hawks, the ducks, the blue herons, etc.  For a Saturday afternoon, when the valley floor is crawling with people and cars and wine-tasting, this was a perfect day in the park and a picnic lunch where there were few people along the trail, and we only saw one other couple at the lake.  When they left we were alone for a good 30 minutes before anyone else showed up.  Wow!  What a perfect day, and right here within city limits.

We wanted the perfect lunch and we thought Oxbow Market, about a two minute drive from the inn, would be the perfect place to get everything we needed.  We started in a store called The Fatted Calf, where they offered only 2 sandwich selections (we bought the pork sandwich with slaw and dressing on a beautiful ciabatta roll), but also offered cold bbq’d ribs and other cooked meats to take with you.  Next door we entered into the Model Bakery for a lovely selection of cookies (and more sandwiches), desserts, and breads.  We followed this up with a walk through the wine store where we picked up a Rhone wine (half-bottle) for our lunch (yes, it’s important to drink non-Napa wine!), and then perused the cheese shop next door for something delicious to take with us on the hike.  We then took a walk through the main Oxbow Market and I was disappointed that I could not take ice cream with us as the ice cream shop was just screaming for attention on this hot day.  I wanted to dally in the spice shop, or at the meat market, or even at Pica-Pica that offers everything gluten-free (made with cornmeal) with lovely tortilla-like sandwiches, and to meander through the veggie-fruit market; but, alas, Jamie called me out of my “shopping haze” to get back outdoors and to enjoy the day.  Want to take a picnic lunch with you?  Start at the Oxbow Market and you can find pretty much whatever you want for the day.  And remember: tell them that Jim and Jamie sent you from The Inn On First!