Jim & Jamie’s Adventures In Napa

Living in San Francisco for 14 years taught me an appreciation for wine bars and good food.  It gave you the opportunity to try new releases and new vineyards with a paired food item.  When the new wine bar, Carpe Diem, opened I was skeptical: do we really need a wine bar in Napa?  My answer is absolutely YES!  They are doing for me what San Francisco wine bars did: introduce me to small vintners here in the Valley and, even better, abroad.  Because I don’t want my palate to become “Napa only” I always appreciate when a restaurant provides non-Napa wines to enjoy so I can keep my palate fresh and open to new developments in the wine industry throughout the world.

The decor is right up our alley: modern, contemporary, with cool colors and muted hues.  The chef is doing some great work with small and large bites of food: the deep fried olives are a perfect beginning, and the pork rib sliders are scrumptious.  The cheese selection is not so intense that you cannot decide; the choices are clear, clean, and varied.  The nut and seed Dukkah was a new food item for me and I loved eating it, dipping the bread in olive oil and then into the nut and seed mixture.  The Italian Picnic Salad was unusual in presentation and that was what made it so much fun and tasty.  We also enjoyed the Corn Dogs and dipping them in mustard (what a nice dish to awaken the memories to carnivals from childhood).  That was part of the enjoyment: the food evoked conversations about other countries as well as past memories.  Now how nice is that?

The wine list, by the glass and by the bottle, is part of the joy.  Make sure to use the wine steward as he is knowledgeable and loves to introduce you to new wines.  When I tried a white wine he suggested with the sliders I was hesitant: but he was spot on.  There was a sweetness and a spiciness to the sliders that worked perfectly against the wine.

For those who aren’t “too hungry”, this is a great place to go.  For those who want a “full meal” this is a great place to go.  Yes, it suits both needs between all the dishes offered.  I look forward to seeing how the menu changes as well as the wine list over the next year.  I’m very happy that Carpe Diem is a new addition to our recommended list and is within walking distance of The Inn On First.

It takes time.  You have to know your guests.  With some I won’t even try; they usually have the look of “steak and potatoes” in their eyes.  But the adventurous ones, the food lovers, those who want to try something unusual and fun and delicious; these are the ones I will talk to about Ubuntu.  These individuals look at your warily at first when you invite them to consider a “vegetable restaurant” for dinner.  No, not vegan, not vegetarian; a restaurant that takes vegetables to new heights and brings new meaning to innovative dining.  I invite them to find a vegetable they are “tired of” and order it; because I assure you that the chef, Aaron London, will prepare the vegetable in such a way that you will be fighting over the dish for the last bite or final drop.  Who cares that it was named the Best New Restaurant in America by the NY Times in 2009?  Who cares that Michelin Rating gave it a single star?  Who cares that the local food critic in San Francisco gave the food 3.5 stars out of 4 and wrote: “Order anything.  You’ll be happy”?  Aaron London is bringing poetry and beauty to vegetables in a way that I never considered.  We have eaten there 9 times in 2 years; more than any other restaurant in Napa Valley; and we continue to introduce our family and friends to the restaurant.

So, Gary and Cynthia from Kansas were here with us recently to celebrate their 45th wedding anniversary.  After a few moments of talking to them I could see that glint in their eyes, the opening to new possibilities in their world, and so I began my quest to invite them to something new and wonderful in Napa.  They were intrigued.  Then I began to describe the curried coconut soup, the fava bean tempura, the flatbread piled high with greens and flowers, and the donuts with liquid chocolate pudding for dessert.  I told them not to be intimidated by the menu description, but rather to have the server explain the plates because then their mouths would water.  ”Intriguing,” Gary said.  ”Interesting,” Cynthia replied.  Hmm.  Not good enough.  Just then two guests came around the corner and asked Gary and Cynthia where they were going to have dinner.  They told the young couple they were considering Ubuntu, the vegetable restaurant.  The young couple responded with glee!  They had just eaten there the night before and had a marvelous meal.  Gary and Cynthia were sold and left for dinner.

I waited until after breakfast, hoping they were fully sated and satisfied with what I had served them, and then I dared to ask the question: “How was dinner last night?”  ”You were right,” Gary said.  ”The menu is a little intimidating and the server explained it to perfection.  Even better, the food was spectacular and we loved it.  I think it is one of the best meals I have ever eaten!”  Enough said.  And this was Gary and Cynthia from Kansas, meat and potato country.  Go.  Enjoy.  And try not to eat too many vegetables; you’ll want to leave some room for dessert.

I am in love with the new Italian restaurant down the street called OH-no-tree, but spelled Oenotri.  Southern Italian/Sicilian cuisine that presents new flavors each week to satisfy your Italian urge.  First, the pizza:  We chose the margherita pizza again to look for consistency and it was just perfect.  Crusty, a nice blend of tomatoes and oregano and just a touch of cheese make this pizza a perfect appetizer to begin the meal.  I ordered the roasted artichoke salad (I know they’ll be out of season soon!), served with potatoes and tuna confit and Jamie ordered the field greens with vinaigrette.  Nothing wrong with his salad; it was just that mine sparkled with every bite and he agreed.  I’ll warn you now: trying to limit what you order can be difficult considering that they make their own pastas and salumi.

Jamie ordered the pasta with lamb, with a rich, earthy sauce that you wanted to sop up with bread.  (A note on bread: they’ll serve it if you ask for it; it isn’t just offered, and it comes with olive oil)  I chose the house-made pastrami dinner with arugula (not my favorite green but it worked perfectly with the pastrami) and long-cooked fava beans in the skin, all of which was delicious.  The beans pleasantly surprised me: I usually boil my fava beans briefly and then remove the outer skin before using; but the longevity of the cooking process at Oenotri softened the skin and gave the bean a silkier texture than I imagined.  As for wine we brought our own: a $15 corkage fee for the first bottle, and $20 for every bottle after that.  Reservations here are a must, and at least 1 to 2 weeks in advance for a decent dinner time.

Jeremy Fox and his wife left Ubuntu this past year and we were a bit worried about what would happen to this nationally known “vegetable restaurant”.  Well, after eating 2 dinners there with Chef Aaron London (who has been working there since the inception of the restaurant) there is no doubt that the same great food is coming out of that kitchen; ok, dare I say it?  I think even better.  The menu has been scaled down to a more manageable size, and the flavors are still incredibly rich and inviting.  I have eaten there more often than any other restaurant in Napa Valley; simply because, I conjecture, I cannot believe someone is actually going to get me to eat all of my vegetables!  This last time it was the carrots.  I thought I just couldn’t swallow another carrot for the year, and the plate arrived and we found ourselves fighting over the dish.  The flatbread (not pizza) with a thin crispy crust and lots of greens on top was fresh tasting, gave great crunch, and deeply satisfied.  Of course, for starters we always begin with the marcona almonds and the olives and the chickpeas in romesco sauce because the flavors just wake the palate up out of its afternoon stupor.  For dessert I had to order the chicory doughnuts and hot chocolate (two of my favorite food groups: fat and sugar) and was not disappointed as I sipped up liquid chocolate pudding from a cup.  It was heavenly.  Don’t worry about walking away hungry; you won’t.  They find plenty of ways to put protein sources in the meal (legumes, grains, cheese, eggs).  It is no surprise to me that the New York Times called it the “Best New Restaurant in America outside of NYC” in 2009.  It continues to shine.

For years we have talked about eating at La Toque, especially when it moved from Rutherford to the City of Napa.  As an upscale, classy, and special place we kept waiting for a “special occasion” to go.  Well, we finally had to admit that having a free night together was enough of a special occasion to go; and we were not disappointed.  They sat us near the fireplace at a quiet table for two; and as I looked around the room I realized that all the tables were spread out so that each table provided privacy and gave you enough aloneness to make it very romantic.  As much as I love tasting menus because they provide the chef a place to showcase his talent, we wanted to eat on the “lighter” side.  They offer a 3-course or 4-course options on the main menu, and we chose the 4-course (so much for “lighter”): appetizer, first course, main course, and dessert.  They began with a small amuse bouche to awaken the appetite, and then we began with our first course- for me,  ricotta ravioli served with chickpeas and mushrooms.  It was such a great beginning and I was really pleased.  Jamie started with the curried dungeness crab salad with homemade papadums, a small tower of crunch and flavor in every bite.

For second course, I decided to try the lobster salad with roasted sweet potatoes- a combination of foods I wouldn’t necessarily have paired together- and it worked brilliantly.  Served warm, the lobster still stood up for itself against what could have been an overwhelming flavor in the sweet potato and the two danced perfectly on my palate.  Jamie chose the Quail, with sausage-stuffed morel mushrooms that were completely addictive.  For his main course Jamie went wild and ordered the buffalo with a buffalo pot-roast terrine, served with scalloped potatoes, as his main course; I admit that buffalo can have a gamy aroma associated with it, but the flavor did not carry it.  With the raclette-filled potatoes, the combination was really nice.  Angus rib eye with red wine sauce was my choice, mostly because it came with cheddared pearl tapioca on the side, which was every bit as delicious as I had hoped.  Although the courses look small in appearance, as you eat each course you begin to fill up and wonder whether you even have room for dessert at the end.  We suffered through it, of course, and ordered the chocolate mousse cake with a mint chocolate chip ice cream cookies that was rich and creamy, and the chocolate parfait that had incredible layers of cream, chocolate, and nougat throughout the cup.  Overall cost?  Without wine: about $200.00 for two, which in Napa is a great bargain; with wine, add another $100 – $150, depending on what you order.

For guests looking for a really nice dining experience that is classy, upscale, and romantic (and is only a 2-minute drive from The Inn On First), check out La Toque for a really lovely meal.

We often send guests up to Northern Napa Valley (only 25 miles away) to visit Vincent Arroyo Winery, Summers Winery, August Briggs Winery, or even Laura Zahtila Winery.  We often suggest a picnic lunch to enjoy, but for those who want to sit down and be served then SolBar is the answer.  Situated in the Solage Resort in Calistoga, SolBar is their restaurant that has a nicely appointed dining room and a sunny patio area outdoors for those who enjoy the sun and views of the surrounding mountains.  We chose outdoors for our venue and with perfect 70 degree weather and everything green and lush, with the swimming pool in the background toward one end, and the fountain that has a firepit in the center of it at the other, it created a “perfect Napa moment” for us.  The menu is playful: four columns of about 20 items- 10 appetizers, 10 entrees.  In the appetizer section, there is the first column printed in green (healthier options) and the second column printed in red (richer options); and that same organization on the entrees.  It was fun to choose from both sides of each column, playing with both healthy and rich, luscious food (read that butter, creamy, and wonderful).  We began with the roasted pepper soup served with arancini, delightfully poured out into the bowl at the table, as well as the sunchoke soup with a creamy base and pine nuts that were a perfect contrast in texture and flavor.  Moving onto the entrees we ordered the tuna burger with tofu salad and the chicken tandoori with naan bread and a cucumber-lettuce salad.  The tuna was freshly cut tuna steaks, formed into patties and served in a steamed bun.  Served medium rare as it should be, it was a nice afternoon bite.  The chicken tandoori was served as cutlets with a dry rub marinade and pan-fried, on top of homemade naan bread with a fresh tasting cucumber salad that fit just right with the chicken.  Portions are large, presentation is great, and flavor is wonderful.  We are really excited about having this new restaurant to send our guests to while visiting the Calistoga region and know that they, too, on a day like today, will find a “perfect Napa moment” celebrating good wine, good food, good friends, in a great location.

We recently returned to Angele (pronounced On- jell) as part of our yearly evaluation of restaurants in the area.  It was a quiet night, but even when it is busy there is always a sense of romance in the air.  The candlelight, the river outside the windows, and the great food make a lasting impression.  Foie gras was on the menu, still a favorite of mine, served two ways: fried and a terrine slice served with apple relish and toasted brioche.  What a treat.  Jamie enjoyed the beet salad and we both tasted the roasted artichoke soup that was a special on the menu.  Both items were just lovely.  For dinner I ordered the sweetbreads; I realize that not everyone likes the concept of sweetbreads, but they are beautiful.  Served with fresh vegetables and a poultry reduction sauce it was a perfect pairing.  Jamie decided on the Boeuf Bourguignon with buttered noodles and it was the hit of the evening.  Slow roasted, fork-tender beef, with a luscious red wine reduction sauce.  For dessert a scoop of peanut butter and chocolate ice cream.  It was a wonderful meal and confirmed that Angele is still one of the great places for guests to dine while in Napa.

As a side note, Angele also has a wonderful patio that overlooks the Napa River and is a great dining spot for lunch; or when the weather cooperates later in the Summer, a perfect place to dine for dinner.

We typically avoid restaurants along First Street as they seem to suffer from bad food or bad service and in rare cases both.  Norma Rose Tavern breaks that mold.  They don’t take reservations, so it is first come, first served.  So we gladly put in our names, were told it would be forty-five minutes, and informed them that we would be across the street at the Avia Hotel enjoying a glass of wine in their lounge and would return to claim the table and not to give it away any sooner.  They honored that request nicely.  A note on the Avia lounge- it is a nice place to gather around a table for a glass of wine while you wait.  We haven’t tried the restaurant yet as they have exchanged chefs multiple times and we’re waiting on some history to be built before we go.

As for Norman Rose Tavern, it is now another local’s favorite, and it is tavern food.  Sandwiches, soups, salads, burgers, chicken, fish, french fries, onion rings, etc.  This is not gourmet as in innovative and different.  This cuisine is for those who want something easy, simple, and tasty.  We ordered the truffle-parmesan fries to start and the macaroni and cheese (pure comfort food!) and we were not disappointed: crisp, freshly fried, and tasty fries, with a smooth, creamy, delicious cheese sauce on the macaroni.  The field greens salad with Pt. Reyes Blue Cheese (a personal favorite cheese of mine) was spot on, as was the tavern chopped salad (with more Pt. Reyes Blue Cheese).  Unfortunately they were out of snapper that night so we settled on the Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sandwich and the Lamb Burger.  With Oenotri just next door, we can’t even tell you how happy we are that these two new restaurants have opened just 3 blocks away from The Inn On First.

A new restaurant called Oenotri opened in the past few weeks and we are really excited.  They are certified to serve Neapolitan Margherita Pizza (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizza), and serve specialties of Campania, Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia.  We started, of course, with the Pizza and the tomato sauce is so fresh and clean tasting in its simplicity that you can appreciate the tomatoes for what they are without a lot of added herbs; as well as the roasted beet salad with pistachio sauce that was delicious.  Then we ordered the black pasta, made with squid ink, served with squid and more squid ink and butter, which made everyone’s teeth black as you ate and created a good round of laughter while indulging in the flavors.  Jamie enjoyed the lamb which included two large chops and vegetables, and I ordered the squab which was perfectly roasted and served with an olive relish that worked really well with the meat.  Our friends ordered the black cod on grits with spring vegetables and pine nuts, and the fish just melted in your mouth.  For dessert we ordered the cookies and coffee which came with 3 small bites, a bit of chocolate, and coffee of course.  We loved everything about the place; so much so that we want to go back soon and try it again just to make sure there is consistency in the service and dishes….dinner anyone?

We ate at Grace’s Table restaurant recently and enjoyed a bit of world cuisine.  Between the four of us we were able to enjoy many appetizers and main courses to share.  We started with the deep-fried artichoke hearts with a yummy romesco (red pepper) sauce (enjoyed by all except me, as I don’t like deep-fried artichokes, but gladly sopped up the romesco sauce with my bread), a roasted beet salad that was clean and pure in flavor (Jamie’s favorite), chicken liver mouse with a red wine gelee on top served with crostinis (loved it!), and a beautiful asparagus salad with parmesan and nasturtiums.  Our main courses included a delightfully presented tamale with peppers and cheese, the cassoulet that was perfectly cooked and piping hot, a savory duck confit, and polpette (meatballs) with  greens and pasta.  For dessert we enjoyed a blood-orange infused cheesecake that was out of this world, a pear tart with puff pastry crust and caramel sauce (a fave of 2 others), and the gigantic piece of chocolate cake (Jamie’s favorite).  Overall, a great experience for us.  My only complaint is the decor- a little too plain and ordinary for such great food coming out of the kitchen.  Jamie and Mercedes would have great decorating ideas; but they’re not asking.  Oh well.  Still a great food and great value experience for us.